Melasma, Is That You?

What is melasma & what does it look like?

Melasma is a skin disorder that can often be difficult to identify upon first glance. When it comes to hyperpigmentation, many people believe they are dealing with sun damaged skin when in fact, they may be facing a different matter altogether - cue melasma. Melasma is characterized by flat clusters of light brown or grey/brown speckles - similar to how freckles would appear. Melasma, unlike freckles, typically appears symmetrically across the face, centralizing on the cheeks, nose bridge, forehead, upper lip and chin. This condition separates itself from most other hyperpigmentation conditions, due to its presentation and hormonal linkage. Unlike sun damage, melasma is not caused by the suns UV rays, this condition is caused by an imbalance in our hormone levels! Although melasma is not caused by UV rays, sunlight and light emitted from electronic devices can both trigger an outbreak or aggregate one that is already present. 

What is happening in the skin? 

Our hormones control a variety of functions within our bodies. In some cases, like melasma, our hormones can cause the overproduction of melanin. Melanocytes are the agents in our skin responsible for creating pigmentation (melanin). When melasma is present, our hormones activate the overproduction of melanin causing the appearance of “the mask” or the hyperpigmentation that defines this skin disorder. The same way that sunlight (UV) can cause hyperpigmentation, so too can our hormones! 

Who does melasma affect?

Melasma is a common and often treatable skin condition with its affected populations being 90% women. This condition is triggered by internal factors such as hormones, specifically the overproduction of estrogen and progesterone. While estrogen and progesterone are present in both men and women, women naturally produce more estrogen making them at a larger risk for developing this skin condition. Women especially produce higher levels of estrogen during pregnancy which is why melasma has been coined by many as “the pregnancy mask”. If hyperpigmentation has suddenly appeared with pregnancy, there is a chance that what you are experiencing is melasma. Melasma can fade on its own within 3 - 6 months of giving birth or completing breastfeeding however, this is not always the case. Melasma is known to be stubborn and can become a chronic disorder. Other predispositions for melasma include one’s genetics, those with deeper skin tones, and those taking oral contraceptives and/or hormones. 

Is melasma cause for concern? 

Luckily, melasma does not pose a risk to one's health nor is it uncomfortable in any way. Some people may become concerned when first experiencing melasma as its appearance tends to mimic that of certain skin cancers. Because of this, we recommend seeing your skin specialist who will be able to differentiate and determine if what you are experiencing is in fact melasma. Oftentimes a biopsy performed by your skin specialist (a test of skin cells) can confirm a melasma diagnosis. Although this skin disorder is no cause for alarm, there are things to watch out for. If you become diagnosed with melasma you should aim to avoid hormone treatments, LED lights, unprotected sun exposure (ALWAYS wear your SPF) and tanning beds. These harsh emissions of heat and light can worsen your condition and interfere with any treatment outcomes. 

Is melasma treatable?

Like all forms of hyperpigmentation, melasma can be treated! However, melasma does not always respond immediately to physical treatments. In some cases, a melasma outbreak may subside on its own, but this is not a guarantee. There are, however, a variety of actions you can take against your melasma in order to heal it. First, introducing foods and/or supplements rich in Vitamin D into your diet as Vitamin D supports the growth of new skin cells and accelerates the body's natural healing processes. Medical-grade skincare and topical ingredients are highly beneficial in the treatment of melasma. Tyrosinase Inhibitors (Hydroquinone) are ingredients to include in your daily routine as they are powerful in fighting against hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase Inhibitors work to brighten and even skin tone by decreasing the number of melanocytes (pigment causing agents) present in your skin. On average, this ingredient can take full effect within 4 weeks time, so being consistent is key. And last but not least, medical esthetic treatments are highly recommended for correcting any hyperpigmentation concerns, especially when proven to be stubborn like melasma. Since melasma is tied to hormone levels, deeper layers of the epidermis often become affected. Because of this, we recommend peeling treatments as peeling treatments work to exfoliate and accelerate skin cell renewal. Another ideal aspect about using a peel to treat melasma is that with peels we have the option of varying depths. Depth of peel will be chosen to best address your specific skin concern. These depths include a surface-level peel, a medium peel, or a deep peel. Both chemical peels and laser peels have proven to aid in treating melasma hyperpigmentation. Chemical peels are more gentle on the skin as they can take up to 10 days to exfoliate a layer of skin and oftentimes require follow-up treatments in order to meet a client’s complete skin goals. Chemical peels are also a great option for maintaining skin’s clarity and even skin tone post melasma! Laser peels are slightly more intensive as they instantaneously remove the surface level of the skin. This can be beneficial for melasma treatments if the skin condition is affecting the skin's deeper layers. Laser peels and laser treatments alike are safe, highly regulated, and popularly used to address pigmentation concerns and conditions. Taking a multi-therapy approach by incorporating lifestyle, medical-grade skincare and medical esthetician treatments ensures a client will see their best results when experiencing a disorder like melasma. A multi-therapy approach utilizes all of the best options ensuring that a client's bases are covered and that they will be able to best correct their concerns. Because of melasma’s tricky nature, the first step in any treatment plan should always be a consultation. Consultations are complimentary, they are educational opportunities to discuss your skin concerns with a Nu Image esthetician or specialist and build a therapy plan that is designed specifically for you and your goals. It is not uncommon to proceed with a multi-therapy approach as different treatment options bring different benefits. Hyperpigmentation, like melasma, is a popular concern amongst our client community. If melasma or hyperpigmentation is affecting your confidence or quality of life, not to worry, you have options! To book your complimentary consultation with a Nu Image specialist today visit the “Melasma” tab on our website to take the first step forward!